Escape from reality: Padang

Ombak besar!

Padang! A city devastated by a 7,6 magnitude earthquake in 2009, is actually a really beautiful place. Most of the buildings that collapsed have been restored, and people here seem quite wealthy (at least when compared to the rest of Indonesia). Streets are filled with warungs that serve delicious food and traffic jams seem non-existent.

Here I've done nothing else but surfed.

I arrived here from Bukit Tinggi on Tuesday noon. After some hazzle we agreed with my surf guide Simon from Malaysia that we'd meet in a hotel located in the center of the city. Simon indeed came over and I hopped (along side with two Finns who came from Lake Toba) to his van, which left us in a cozy hostel some kilometers from the centre.

The first night (which was not included in the surf course prise, but Simon immediately offered us accomodation) we dined together and went to bed early. The next morning (Wednesday) we woke up at six, had a quick breakfast of tea and lontong and drove to the Air Manis beach. And then we started to go through the basics of how to stands over water with a flat canoe.

Me with a mini-surfer

We were armed with rashies (spandex long sleeved shirts), huge soft orange practice-boards and leashes that attached us to the boards. The lessons started with stretching and going through the paddling and arching techniques. After maybe ten minutes of theory we headed to the sea.

Air Manis is a sand bottomed beach that opens to the direction of Indian Ocean. In the distance there are the Mentawai-islands that break down the waves, so the beach is perfect for longboarders and beginner surfers. The waves are quite constant 4-footers that only flat out during the hottest hours, between noon and about four o'clock. We surf from about seven to seven, having a four hour lunch and nap-break in the middle.

Air Manis (Sweet Water)

The four-day course offered by Blue Forest Surf has been just amazing. Simon is a talented and devoted surfer, who flies here from Malaysia just to surf and teach. His constantly giving us advice, but also lets us choose our own waves and motivates us to try harder. The course includes accommodation, food (eating out in nice local joints), rides to the beach and back and all the gear needed for surfing. The surf itself is physically hard but mentally really rewarding.

Local surfers posing

Another pose

It's almost four o'clock, so we got to head back to the beach. I've got a few good green waves so far and even held a wave once while riding it. The feeling was amazing, and I can't wait to learn more.

In the words of all knowing Simon; Chill out bros, this is all about fun!

-Me